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I have found no write up or FAq found on club na-t for this, no walkthrough or faq on how to wire this puzzle.
This is a thread to document the puzzle i worked on for 3 weeks or so, many others have done this prior to me but may not be so willing to share.
wiring on aristo wiring/ecu install into a->2jz-ge car
the logic is to take the 2jz-ge harness (which fits and runs your car currently), and configure it to be identical to the aristo 2jz-gte ecu and physically connect to the engine sensor plugs.
if you compare the pinouts between both you will see that:
inj 1-6, ground, map, water/oil temp, datalink connector, GE1/2 for crank/cam are all in the same place between jdm aristo 2jzgte and usdm 2jz-ge
they differ for ignition setup- simply remove the wires from the jdm harness and pin them into the place of the usdm wires - each ecu plug is 40 pins and the wires can be removed individually.
The Aristo wiring harness only has 2 ecu plugs, and one weird giant body plug. its 3rd ecu pug is connected to the body interior harness, not the engine harness. - You can dis-regard this big body plug as you wont need it
Sc300 2jzge has the identical 3 ECU plugs as a 2jzgte ecu (aristo or supra, dosnt matter- same 3 40 pin ecu plugs) -the 3 ecu plugs are 1 big double with a 10mm bolt, and 1 single 40 pin plug.
The OEM SC300 single ecu plug is identical to the Aristo in its functions- this plug connects to the body and handles things like fuel pump power, vehicle speed, CEL, AC, defogger, etc. you can use this plug and all of its wiring AS IS -no need to modify.I did not need to add the additional Aristo wires to that plug because i was not interested in running the automatic transmission and its related garbage.
Procedure:
1. remove tape from harness (both). clean up
2. Chase the wires from the sc300 2jz-GE double plug, and dis-connect them from from the wires coming from the single plug alone - you want to disconnect the double plug (engine only) from the single plug (body) --> the goal is to have a SC300 engine harness without the GE engine control portion. connecting wires will be T's into sensor shared power, or T's into EFI+ power or common Ground. Easy to find, trace and remove
3. On the aristo double plug, you will be removing (de-pinning) the automatic transmission parts first, I removed the sequential turbo vsv's but you dont have to remove them. Once you have de-pinned the auto wires, seperate them from the loom. I also removed the Large Aristo specific body connector by chasing its wires and dis-connecting them from the engine control double harness.
4. Now you have a 2jz-GE sc300 body harness that cannot run an engine, and a Aristo 2jz-gte harness without connections to the body. The aristo portion will need power and ground, the Sc300 portion has power and ground. Connect power wires to power, ground wires to ground per OEM style - even the colours are the same- brown with white strip is ground, Black with orange stripe is EFI+ power. The Ignition and fuel injectors are all powered via the EFI+ per Factory wiring manual. The harness parts will be connected via power/ground and @ the ECU itself.
the NA GE injector wires and TPS wires are actually identical and do not need to be exchanged if not desired, but for ease of converstion - i just simply removed each wire individually from the double connector (after my pruning) and pinned it into the exact identical location, making the GE harness a GTE harness.
4. Obviously when you are done, you will have a mess of wires, many that are not long enough. I initially left the ECU in the engine bay to troubleshoot while I worked on routing wires, then moved it to proper location after a day or so of organization.
this is where it gets messy: you need to make sure that all the grounds (brown with white stripe) and all the IGN+ power (black with orange stripe) are collected together. Once you have everything connected, start routing and wrapping your wires. I had to extend a one of the ignitor wires, water temp sensor, IAT sensor, O2 sensor to midpipe (JDM uses a single 3 wire o2 sensor, I bought a bosch universal part from autozone for a nissan altima)- TPS, the injectors (i also wired a MK3 resistor pack to work with mk4 usdm denso 550's), but kept the key sensors 100% untouched- crank angle sensor, cam x2, knock sensors - these did not need extending. I had to extend the small single 40 pin ecu plug as well.
5. Test fit and fire! This may take a while
if you are using aristo trans u will have to transfer the aristo trans wiring pins also, I have a 5mt sc300 and i deleted the TRAC setup, all VSV- im doing a TTC/Manual boost controler/5mt swap
reference threads (where I got aristo pinout diagrams / images / info):
This is a thread to document the puzzle i worked on for 3 weeks or so, many others have done this prior to me but may not be so willing to share.
wiring on aristo wiring/ecu install into a->2jz-ge car
the logic is to take the 2jz-ge harness (which fits and runs your car currently), and configure it to be identical to the aristo 2jz-gte ecu and physically connect to the engine sensor plugs.
if you compare the pinouts between both you will see that:
inj 1-6, ground, map, water/oil temp, datalink connector, GE1/2 for crank/cam are all in the same place between jdm aristo 2jzgte and usdm 2jz-ge
they differ for ignition setup- simply remove the wires from the jdm harness and pin them into the place of the usdm wires - each ecu plug is 40 pins and the wires can be removed individually.
The Aristo wiring harness only has 2 ecu plugs, and one weird giant body plug. its 3rd ecu pug is connected to the body interior harness, not the engine harness. - You can dis-regard this big body plug as you wont need it
Sc300 2jzge has the identical 3 ECU plugs as a 2jzgte ecu (aristo or supra, dosnt matter- same 3 40 pin ecu plugs) -the 3 ecu plugs are 1 big double with a 10mm bolt, and 1 single 40 pin plug.
The OEM SC300 single ecu plug is identical to the Aristo in its functions- this plug connects to the body and handles things like fuel pump power, vehicle speed, CEL, AC, defogger, etc. you can use this plug and all of its wiring AS IS -no need to modify.I did not need to add the additional Aristo wires to that plug because i was not interested in running the automatic transmission and its related garbage.
Procedure:
1. remove tape from harness (both). clean up
2. Chase the wires from the sc300 2jz-GE double plug, and dis-connect them from from the wires coming from the single plug alone - you want to disconnect the double plug (engine only) from the single plug (body) --> the goal is to have a SC300 engine harness without the GE engine control portion. connecting wires will be T's into sensor shared power, or T's into EFI+ power or common Ground. Easy to find, trace and remove
3. On the aristo double plug, you will be removing (de-pinning) the automatic transmission parts first, I removed the sequential turbo vsv's but you dont have to remove them. Once you have de-pinned the auto wires, seperate them from the loom. I also removed the Large Aristo specific body connector by chasing its wires and dis-connecting them from the engine control double harness.
4. Now you have a 2jz-GE sc300 body harness that cannot run an engine, and a Aristo 2jz-gte harness without connections to the body. The aristo portion will need power and ground, the Sc300 portion has power and ground. Connect power wires to power, ground wires to ground per OEM style - even the colours are the same- brown with white strip is ground, Black with orange stripe is EFI+ power. The Ignition and fuel injectors are all powered via the EFI+ per Factory wiring manual. The harness parts will be connected via power/ground and @ the ECU itself.
the NA GE injector wires and TPS wires are actually identical and do not need to be exchanged if not desired, but for ease of converstion - i just simply removed each wire individually from the double connector (after my pruning) and pinned it into the exact identical location, making the GE harness a GTE harness.
4. Obviously when you are done, you will have a mess of wires, many that are not long enough. I initially left the ECU in the engine bay to troubleshoot while I worked on routing wires, then moved it to proper location after a day or so of organization.
this is where it gets messy: you need to make sure that all the grounds (brown with white stripe) and all the IGN+ power (black with orange stripe) are collected together. Once you have everything connected, start routing and wrapping your wires. I had to extend a one of the ignitor wires, water temp sensor, IAT sensor, O2 sensor to midpipe (JDM uses a single 3 wire o2 sensor, I bought a bosch universal part from autozone for a nissan altima)- TPS, the injectors (i also wired a MK3 resistor pack to work with mk4 usdm denso 550's), but kept the key sensors 100% untouched- crank angle sensor, cam x2, knock sensors - these did not need extending. I had to extend the small single 40 pin ecu plug as well.
5. Test fit and fire! This may take a while
if you are using aristo trans u will have to transfer the aristo trans wiring pins also, I have a 5mt sc300 and i deleted the TRAC setup, all VSV- im doing a TTC/Manual boost controler/5mt swap
reference threads (where I got aristo pinout diagrams / images / info):
